May 27-28/2012 Side Trip La Coruna and Ferrol

We have just finished walking the Camino de la Plata, http://www.caminowalkaboutplata.blogspot.com . We had some extra days, before leaving for home in California, so we decided to take two side trips, La Coruna and Ferrol.

Plaza Mayor La Coruna

We took a bus out to La Coruna today. Quite a big seaport city. We walked through old town and along the promenade close to the sea. We saw lovely gardens and went out to the light house. It is called the tower of Hercules. The story of Hercules began in the 1200's. The story goes that a giant called Geryon ruled over all the land between the two nearby rivers, the Tagus and the Douro. He terrified the people. Hercules challenged Geryon and they fought for three days. Hercules won and cut off Geryon's head. He buried the head and commanded that a tower be built over it. He then founded the city of Crunia. Named after first woman that lived there and a woman Hercules fell in love with. After Hercules left, his nephew finished the tower. He put a lamp on it that never went out and a large mirror on top so they would know when enemy ships were approaching. It was built in the 1st century and the only lighthouse of antiquity that is still working.

Tower of Hercules

We then went to lunch and had tropical salads. Lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, strawberry, peaches, and grilled shrimp with a thousand island dressing. It was delicious.

Lunch La Coruna

Lunch La Coruna

We got back to Santiago by 1600 and then planned our trip tomorrow to Ferrol.
The 0915 bus from Santiago takes an hour and a half to arrive at Ferrol. After a very short walk from the bus station, you arrive at a major square plaza with evidence of lost hope. Modern buildings were closed.
Joan asked for directions to the sea. Three people were involved in the answer. The winer could easily have been subscripted aboard one of Magellan's ships. He pointed and said just walk down that street till you hear the gulls call. Often with such straight forward directions, there is no need for an information office. We found the Parador, Church and the open air fish market where we purchased our lunch, tuna and sardine empanadas followed up with torts with custard and cream.
On the way back to the bus station, we happened to pass the information office which was just about to close. We asked about the Camino Ingles. The gentleman was exceptionally gracious and presented us with descriptive maps and photographs of the entire way.
We were hooked. At that moment we looked at each other and said why not. So the blog continues, the Camino Ingles from Ferrol, Spain to Santiago 117k.
OTHER BLOGS:

Caminowalkabout.blogspot.com (Frances, Finisterra, Muxia)

Caminowalkaboutnorte.blogspot.com

Caminowalkaboutplata.blogspot.com

Caminowalkaboutingles.blogspot.com

Caminowalkaboutlakecountry.blogspot.com

Caminowalkaboutoahu.blogspot.com

Caminowalkabouteurope.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutitaly.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutnorthcoast.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutpinnacles.blogspot.com
Caminowalkaboutgermany.blogspot.com

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June 1/2012 Segueiro to Santiago

Hotel San Vicente

We spent a lovely afternoon and evening yesterday at the hotel San Vicente . The owner and staff were so accommodating. For our early afternoon meal the owner drove us to his brother's restauraunt in Sigueiro so we could get a good meal. Andrew joined us. First we toasted to the Queen's 60th, then to Andrew's achievement and ours  The hotel itself is right on the Camino and about 2 hours from Santiago   The rooms overlook a beautiful garden and were very quiet. The room even had a large bath tub! We soaked away our aches and pains. At 0700 the next morning, the owner sent us off with a large breakfast of fresh juice, cafe con leche, croissants, toast and cake . The breakfast is included in the price which was 55€ for 2. We started off in a thunder storm with rain but it did not last long. We finally left behind our green fields and Forrest and entered the city. We went and got our Compestelos and then started to leave the city to catch the 1100 bus to Vigo, Spain. A voice called out: we turned to see Renata and one of her Toronto friends who started with her in Seville many weeks ago. What a happy surprise. Kisses all around. Renata had walked on to Finestera and wore out her heal. She had been recovering before walking the Camino Norte. We had packed for so long an entire apothecary bag of every imaginable size mole skin and large tape on soft skin. We gave it all to her wishing her a fast recovery. We had said good bye to Renata so often this time was the hardest. She represented all those we met along the way and we knew it would be very unlikely we would meet again. To those we have met along the "Ways", we sincerely wish you good health and happiness. You will remain with us always. Buen Camino. 

saying Good Bye to the owner  of the Hotel San Vicente

Andrew

the final paths into Santiago were gentle

Young Planted pine forest and "Way" marker

getting closer the walk becomes industrial

Finally in the distance! 

entering Santiago through the ancient arch

We have officially arrived in Santiago

Renata and a friend from Canada

Yes, we will be coming back to The Camino Norte in 2013

If you care to email us with questions or to share memories, use google translator and send your emails to:

joanliz@me.com or stuwmson@me.com

Buen Camino

May 31/2012 Bruma to Segueiro

Up early again because we had another 30 k day. Galicia which is always misty and cool is now hot. They say the weather is changing. The Camino is most crowded during July and August because of vacations. The weather has always been cool up here in the mountains. Today is very warm. We had a splendid night at the albergue last night. The volunteer that runs it contacted a bar and they brought in our dinner. We had soup Gallegos  and Salmon and Potatoes. We had wine and bread and Torta de Santiago. Cost was 10 euros. We then had a good sleep in our comfortable bunks. Up at 0530, and walking at 0615 in the cool morning air. The smell of farm land is most appreciated in the early morning hours. After walking about 2 hours we met up with Andrew. He is a Brit that has lived in Hong Kong for the last 25 years. He is a lawyer with a multitude of sideline interests. He had to get to Santiago tonight to get his plane tomorrow. We picked up our pace either to punish him because he is a lawyer or to help him get in so he does not miss his plane. We of course went up and down hills, not as steep as the day before, through quite lovely country side. To keep us off the highway, the Way zig-zagged through the forests. Stu had a wonderful morning conversing with Andrew who is one of the more interesting people Stu has met. Unconventional for sure; but, a global aficionado with fascinating stories of adventure. He spoke of the pride he has in his family and how it is possible through the mobile phone to be very much apart of his business world. Any member of his family is welcome to stay with us if they ever come to San Francisco. We finally arrived at Hotel St Vincent. We invited Andrew to lunch and to have a break before he continued on to Santiago. We toasted The Queen. We left Andrew on the trail to continue his journey  Buen Camino Andrew may we meet again. We returned to our lovely hotel. to take a bath and to relax. Tomorrow we will have just a short walk into Santiago, 16k. We will first eat breakfast at 0700, it comes with the room. Our final post will be sent from Vigo, Spain as we transform ourselves from being Pensionista Pelegrinos to Pensionista Touristas. 

Early morning start 

Morning cool air

the forests are really tree farms 

Well marked "Way"

Sun rise

Peacefull

just a few kilometers to go

the last of the trails

Andrew with other pilgams

May 30/2012 Betanzos to Bruma

 Shrine of Nosa Senora de Camino, Tiobre, Betanzos

Garcia Hermanos Square, Betanos

Here we ate Lunch, Betano

We left Betanzos a little before 0600. We knew we had 28 to 30 k to walk. We also knew that the Alberque at Bruma was located at the highest point on the Camino Ingles. We crossed the river and then started up hill. We went up for about 2k. The road took us up into the forest where we were most of the day. The path with good footing was always off the highway. The scenery was trees and ferns, green fields and flowers. We went in and out of tiny hamlets and saw many homes, all well taken care of. They all have gardens of fruit trees, vegetables and flowers. After climbing out of the city the next 14K were rolling hills not too steep. The last 14 k was uphill and that was very strenuous. In Galacia hills are a way of life. Rolling hills are how they are described when Joan asks. Rolling implies a soft, gentle rise. Unfortunately they are the steepest ups and downs that we have experienced so far. The final rise to Bruma was the challenge of a life time. We were exhausted.  A sign at the top encouraged us to turn off the camino for just 100 meters for refreshments. When Joan asked, a gentleman close to the sign, he said it was more like 1k; and, immediately offered Joan a cold coke. He knew the steepness of the path she had just walked. We met a man, Donato, from Italy walking the Camino. He decided to join us for the rest of the day. Joan chatted away in Spanish and Italian. The chatter stopped as soon as we started climbing.  Finally we reached Bruma a little before 1300. Joan called the Hospitalero: he came immediately and opened the albergue. He gave us the disposable sheets  and a blanket. He had a printed menu in the kitchen that we can order an evening meal from. A town several kilometers from here has a bar that will make the meals and bring them over-such service. When they will arrive is an unknown. This is a beautiful albergue surrounded by grass and farmland with a river running beside it. We showered  and washed our clothes. With a cold beer in hand, Joan chatted with Donato. 

Joan waiting patiently for me to catch up

Passing under a private vineyard

the many natures of "The Way"

A hardly visible path

the killer hill all the way up from the valley below

Looking back at the valley

Finally, the soothing waters near the albergue

Albergue at Bruma - Excellent in all way.

the nap before dinner


A well earned meal at the albergue at Bruma

May 29/2012 Pontedueme to Betanzos

Leaving Pontedeume

We started out from our albergue by the sea. We ate our breakfast, an orange and small container of Yogurt, outside watching the sun come up over this small fishing village. We then started up a steep one k walk through town up into the hills surrounding the city with spectacular views of the port. For the next couple of hours we wandered through the hills. We were in a forest then back to the sea and up again. We were told that we would encounter rolling hills. We even crossed a golf course and then back up into a forest. These are steep hills and we encountered many. In about 2 hours we entered Mino. There is an albergue there and you can stop and enjoy the city and the coast. We chose to go on, passing the railroad, the shoreline and finally the river. We continued to climb and then descend. We went through more  forests and green lanes that had birds and flowers of all kinds. Once again we never walked on the main road just back roads and trails.The beauty of our surroundings, the tranquility and peace that surrounded us was a delight. The rolling hills continued. We found as soon as we climb up the road it took us down again. Up and down for 20 k until we reached this beautiful city and were totally worn out. Since there is no albergue here, Joan arranged for a pension. Since it was after 1400, we went out to lunch at a small restaurant. We had crochets and then flounder with potatoes. We had a bottle of delicate white wine and then an almond torte called the torta de Santiago. This delicious meal was 12 € each. Our room was 40€ with a private bath. They say the first 10k tomorrow  is fairly flat. We will still have 20k to go. We are carrying our food and will take time outs every two hours. We expect tomorrow to be our biggest challenge yet.

Many beautiful views of the endless Rio de Ares

The many varieties of "The Way"

Passing a Golf course

Just us. few others

 getting some morning sun

 Rolling hills

 Through small towns

 Under grape arbors

 secluded paths

Always close to the water